Van Solar Calculator

Van life solar sizing — enter your rig and loads, get a complete system spec.

ft
ft
LED Lights
Maxxair / Fantastic Fan
Phone Charging
Laptop / Work Setup
12V Compressor Fridge
Diesel Heater (blower)
hrs/day
days
Your van solar system
500W solar · 1,000 Ah @ 12V
Daily usage2,000 Wh
Panels needed5 × 100W
Charge controller53A MPPT
Inverter100W
Roof fits11 panels max (90 sq ft)
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How to Use This Calculator

Select your van type and roof dimensions

The van type pre-fills roof dimensions, but adjust them to your actual build. A Sprinter high-roof has about 65 sq ft of usable flat roof; a standard Transit cargo van has around 40 sq ft. Measure your actual roof minus any vents, skylights, or obstructions.

Choose 12V vs 24V system

Most van builds use 12V — components are widely available and compatible with standard automotive wiring. If your build draws more than 3,000W continuously or has very long wire runs (skoolie/bus), a 24V system reduces current by half, allowing smaller wire gauges and lower losses.

Enter your appliances

The fridge is typically the largest constant draw. A quality 12V compressor fridge (BougeRV, Alpicool, ARB) draws 35-60W on average over 24 hours. The diesel heater blower motor only draws 10-20W — far less than electric space heaters. Laptop usage hours are the second biggest variable for digital nomads.

Days of autonomy

How many nights can you survive on battery alone? For van life, 2-3 days is standard — enough to ride out cloudy days in cities. If you frequently park in underground garages or forested areas with no sun, size for 4-5 days.

The Formula

Daily Wh = Sum of (Watts × Hours/day) for all loads System Watts = Daily Wh ÷ Peak Sun Hours ÷ 0.80 efficiency Panel Count = System Watts ÷ 100W per slim panel Roof Area check = Panel Count × 8 sq ft vs. available roof Battery Ah = (Daily Wh × Autonomy Days) ÷ (Voltage × 0.50 DoD) Charge Controller A = System Watts ÷ Voltage × 1.25

The calculator uses 100W slim panels (about 8 sq ft each) which are the most common van life panel format. If you use larger 200W panels (~16 sq ft each), divide the panel count by 2 for a rough roof fit check. Lithium batteries allow 80% DoD — so your actual battery needs are about 60% of the number shown if you use LiFePO4.

Example

Jake — Sprinter 144" build, van life + remote work

Jake lives in his Sprinter full-time, works as a freelance developer (laptop 8 hours), runs a BougeRV 12V fridge 24/7, and a Maxxair fan for ventilation. He travels the western US (5.0 peak sun hours average) and wants 3 days of battery backup.

Fridge (55W avg)1,320 Wh/day
Laptop (65W × 8h)520 Wh/day
Fan, lights, phone240 Wh/day
Total daily load2,080 Wh

Result

Solar needed520W (6 × 100W panels)
Battery bank (AGM)520 Ah @ 12V
Battery bank (LiFePO4)~325 Ah @ 12V
Charge controller54A MPPT

Six 100W slim panels fit easily on a Sprinter roof (65 sq ft available, panels use 48 sq ft). Jake chose two 200Ah lithium batteries in parallel for a compact, lightweight bank. Total build cost for the electrical system: approximately $1,800-2,200 DIY.

FAQ

Most van lifers settle on 200-600W depending on lifestyle. Minimalist (no fridge, basic lighting): 100-200W. Standard build with 12V fridge: 300-400W. Remote worker with heavy laptop use: 500-600W. Weekend warriors can get by with 100-200W. Enter your exact loads above for a personalized number.
For van builds, rigid monocrystalline panels are the best value. Look for slim profiles (1.2" or less) to reduce wind resistance and noise. Popular sizes: 100W (most flexible placement), 200W (fewer connections). Renogy, Newpowa, and BougeRV make reliable budget panels. Flexible panels are tempting but degrade 2-3x faster and don't allow airflow underneath, which reduces efficiency on hot days.
12V for most vans. 12V components (fridges, fans, lighting, USB chargers) are universally available and cheaper. Only switch to 24V if your system exceeds 1,500W of panels, you have very long wire runs (20+ feet), or you're building a skoolie/bus. 24V halves the current, so you can use thinner wire — but you'll need a 24V-to-12V DC-DC converter for all your 12V appliances.
Use a DC-DC battery-to-battery (B2B) charger, also called a DC-DC charger or isolator. These devices step voltage up to properly charge lithium or AGM house batteries from your alternator without damaging it. Popular options: Renogy DCC50S (50A), Victron Orion-Tr Smart. A typical 50A charger delivers ~600W while driving — roughly equivalent to 2-3 hours of solar in good conditions.
Budget build (200W, 100Ah AGM): $400-600 DIY. Standard build (400W, 200Ah lithium): $1,200-1,800 DIY. Premium build (600W, 400Ah lithium, Victron components): $3,000-5,000. Add $500-1,000 for professional installation. Lithium pays for itself in 3-5 years through longer lifespan and better usable capacity versus AGM.

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