Camper Van Solar Calculator

Enter your van appliances and roof space — get a complete solar system spec for your build.

sq ft
LED Lights
Roof Fan (e.g. Maxxair)
Phone / Tablets
Laptop / Work
12V Compressor Fridge
Water Pump
Diesel Heater (fan only)
days
hrs/day
Your camper van solar system
512 W solar (6 × 100W panels)
Daily usage2,045 Wh
Battery (AGM 50% DoD)1,364 Ah @ 12V
Battery (Lithium 80% DoD)853 Ah @ 12V
Charge controller54A MPPT
Inverter300 W
Roof fits8 panels max
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How to Use This Calculator

Choose your camper type and roof space

Start by selecting your camper type — this determines the panel format the calculator recommends. Cargo vans and Sprinters typically use flexible or slim rigid panels (100W each) that mount flush to the roof. Skoolies and buses have flat roofs that fit standard rigid 200W panels. Enter your actual available roof space in square feet — measure the flat, unobstructed area excluding roof vents, skylights, and AC units.

Enter each appliance

Go through the appliance list and enter the watts each device draws and the hours per day you use it. The 12V compressor fridge (like a BougeRV or Iceco) should be set to 24 hours because it cycles continuously — 40-60W at average is typical. The roof fan (Maxxair or Fan-Tastic) runs most of the night in summer. The diesel heater only draws 10-30W for its fan; the fuel doesn't count toward electrical load.

Set boondocking days and sun hours

Boondocking days drives battery bank size — it's how many nights you need to run on battery alone without solar charging. Van lifers in mixed climates typically plan for 2-3 days. Peak sun hours determines how much your panels actually produce each day. Southwest desert: 5.5-6.5. California coast: 5.0. Pacific Northwest: 3.5-4.5.

Read the output

The results show total solar watts, panel count, battery Ah (separately for AGM and lithium because they have very different usable capacity), charge controller amps, and inverter size. If your roof can't fit enough panels, a warning tells you — the fix is usually higher-wattage flexible panels or supplemental charging from shore power or a DC-DC charger from the alternator.

The Formula

Daily Wh = Sum of (Appliance Watts × Hours/day) Solar Watts needed = Daily Wh ÷ Peak Sun Hours ÷ 0.80 (system efficiency) Panel Count = Solar Watts ÷ Panel Wattage Battery Ah (AGM) = (Daily Wh × Boondocking Days) ÷ (12V × 0.50 DoD) Battery Ah (Lithium) = (Daily Wh × Boondocking Days) ÷ (12V × 0.80 DoD) Charge Controller Amps = Solar Watts ÷ 12V × 1.25 Inverter Watts = Largest single load × 1.25

The 80% system efficiency accounts for MPPT conversion losses, wiring resistance, and temperature derating on hot metal roofs (vans get hot). The depth of discharge (DoD) difference between AGM (50%) and lithium (80%) is why lithium batteries can be nearly half the Ah for the same usable capacity — the Ah rating is the same, but you can actually use more of it.

Example

Alex — Full-time Sprinter conversion, Pacific Coast

Alex works remotely from a high-roof Sprinter with 80 sq ft of roof. They run a laptop 6 hours, a compressor fridge 24/7, a roof fan all night, and charge phones and lights. They travel the Pacific Coast (4.5 peak sun hours) and want 3 days of battery backup.

Daily load total1,790 Wh/day
Peak sun hours4.5 hrs
Boondocking days3 days
Roof space80 sq ft

Result

Solar array500W (5 × 100W panels)
Battery (AGM)895 Ah @ 12V
Battery (Lithium)560 Ah @ 12V
Charge controller52A MPPT
Inverter100W (laptop only)

Five 100W flexible panels fit the Sprinter roof easily. For batteries, 560 Ah of lithium (e.g., two 280Ah cells) is far more practical than 895 Ah of AGM — lighter, smaller, and faster to charge. Alex can run three fully cloudy days before the battery hits 20% reserve. The 52A MPPT controller (e.g., Victron SmartSolar 75/50) is ideal for this 500W array.

FAQ

Most van builds need 200-600W. A minimalist setup (lights, phone, fridge, fan) needs 200-300W. A work-from-van setup with a laptop running 6-8 hours needs 400-600W. Use the appliance list above — it's far more accurate than any rule of thumb. Panel count depends on wattage: 200W might be 2 panels at 100W or 1 panel at 200W.
Flexible panels (like Renogy flexible series) mount flush, look cleaner, and weigh less — good for curved or low-clearance roofs. Rigid panels are cheaper per watt and last longer (20-25 years vs 10-15 for flexible), but need a raised mounting frame. For Sprinter and Transit vans where clearance matters, flexible panels are popular. For skoolies with flat roofs, rigid panels are the better value.
Yes — a DC-DC charger (like Victron Orion-Tr Smart or Renogy DC-DC) connects your vehicle alternator to your house battery bank. A 30A DC-DC charger produces about 360W while driving, which can add 100-150Ah per day of driving. This is an excellent supplement to solar and the reason many van lifers can run longer in cloudy climates. Size the DC-DC charger at 20-40A to avoid overloading the alternator.
LiFePO4 (lithium iron phosphate) is the overwhelming choice for new van builds in 2026. Benefits: 80-90% usable capacity (vs 50% AGM), 2,000-5,000 cycle life (vs 300-500 for AGM), built-in BMS protection, fast charging, and half the weight. The upfront cost is higher — about $400-600 per 100Ah vs $150-200 for AGM — but total lifetime cost is lower for anyone using their van regularly. Popular brands: Battle Born, Renogy, EcoFlow (for drop-in replacements), or DIY 280Ah cells from EVE or CATL.
Only if you need AC power (120V). Many van builds run entirely on 12V DC — lights, fan, fridge, 12V laptop chargers, USB charging. If you need to run a coffee maker, blender, or power tools, you need an inverter. A 300-600W pure sine inverter covers most van needs. If you work with AC-only equipment, size the inverter to the largest load plus 20%. Pure sine inverters are required for sensitive electronics like laptops and chargers.

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